{"id":14384,"date":"2020-04-07T14:26:13","date_gmt":"2020-04-07T14:26:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.lelandhale.com\/wordpress\/?p=14384"},"modified":"2020-04-07T14:26:15","modified_gmt":"2020-04-07T14:26:15","slug":"crime-scene-perfect-marks","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lelandhale.com\/wordpress\/crime-scene-perfect-marks\/","title":{"rendered":"Scene of the Crime: Perfect Marks"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-drop-cap\">We arrived in CDMX &#8212; Ciudad Mexico &#8212; at 7:00 in the evening. At the airport, we jostled our way to a registered cab stand, paid our tariff and waited. The dominant ambience was the sound of sirens. Already, Lorrie was thinking we were marks. That the cab company had seen us coming and jacked the prices. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I shrugged my shoulders. It had been a long day of travel and I was tired. At the hotel, we made our way to the terrace, where food was promised. Sorry, they said, after we climbed four stories to get there. We&#8217;re changing our menu. <em>No hay comida.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/lelandhale.com\/images\/lorrie-desayuno-casa-decu.png\" alt=\"terrace casa decu\"\/><figcaption><strong>Desayuno, Casa Decu<\/strong> w\/ palmier (copyright Leland E. Hale)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The next morning, we ate breakfast on that very same rooftop terrace. <em>Desayuno? Si.<\/em> The sounds of the previous evening gave way to the chirp of birds and the clang of street vendors. The terrace had all the marks of an oasis. We plotted our day over coffee, <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"palmiers (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Palmier\" target=\"_blank\">palmiers<\/a> and <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"conchas (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Concha_(bread)\" target=\"_blank\">conchas<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The plan was dead simple. Find the nearest Ticketmaster and get our physical tickets for the Sunday <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Ballet Folklorico (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/www.balletfolkloricodemexico.com.mx\" target=\"_blank\">Ballet Folklorico<\/a> performance. We had multiple reasons for wanting to go there &#8212; the ballet, of course, but also the large, historic murals on-site and the legendary Tiffany curtain. So, we decided, let&#8217;s get the lay of the land &#8212; oh, and get our tickets too. Our initial destination was about a mile. We would walk. We like to walk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/lelandhale.com\/images\/madre-hija-otros-ojos-bellas-artes.png\" alt=\"lobby palacio de bellas artes\"\/><figcaption><strong>Waiting for the Ballet<\/strong>,<strong> <\/strong>Palacio de Bellas Artes (copyright Leland E. Hale)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>We walked six miles that day. First to one alleged Ticketmaster outlet (closed), then to another, at an address that didn&#8217;t quite make sense. Turns out, it was inside a huge department store called <a aria-label=\"Liverpool (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.liverpool.com.mx\/tienda\/home\" target=\"_blank\">Liverpool<\/a>. At a tiny desk surrounded by kitchenware. Tickets in hand (actually, tucked into a safe pocket in Lorrie&#8217;s vest), we headed for <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Taqueria Los Parados (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/culinarybackstreets.com\/cities-category\/mexico-city\/2018\/taqueria-los-parados\/\" target=\"_blank\">Taqueria Los Parados<\/a>. This legendary taqueria was on my must-do list and, as luck would have it, we&#8217;d already passed it on the way in. Time to return.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/lelandhale.com\/images\/Taqueria-Los-Parados.png\" alt=\"taqueria los parados\"\/><figcaption><strong>Taqueria Los Parados<\/strong>, CDMX<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>There&#8217;s no seating at Los Parados, so we got our tacos to-go (<em>para llevar<\/em>). No problem. They tucked them into those ubiquitous styrofoam containers and then nestled them into a plastic bag. We&#8217;d eat at our hotel room. Yes, it was more than a mile back, but we had our map app and my innate sense of direction. No problem. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\"><p>When we asked why it was called \u201cLos Parados,\u201d he grinned, swept his hands outward, and said, \u201cNo chairs.\u201d<\/p><cite>James Young, Culinary Backstreets<\/cite><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/lelandhale.com\/images\/Los-Parados-comida.png\" alt=\"comida, los parados\"\/><figcaption><strong>Food @ Taqueria Los Parados<\/strong> (courtesy James Young)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On the final leg, we turned up a shady, tree-lined street in Roma Sur, one of the neighborhoods featured in the <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"Oscar-winning film, Roma (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Roma_(2018_film)\" target=\"_blank\">Oscar-winning film, Roma<\/a>. It was sweet respite after the crowded streets in this city of 8 million. Scant traffic. Few people. Just the trees. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>By the time we neared our hotel, we were flagging. Not just the distance. The altitude (7,350 ft). The jet lag. Our barking feet. And there we were. Two &#8220;elderly&#8221; Americans, loaded down with to-go packs. I&#8217;d gotten a little ahead of Lorrie, so I turned and stopped to let her catch up. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/lelandhale.com\/images\/crime-scene-east.png\" alt=\"marks\"\/><figcaption><strong>Scene of the Crime<\/strong> : Hacienda-style house, Calle Aguascalientes<br>(courtesy Google Street View)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>That&#8217;s when <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\"they struck (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/www.lelandhale.com\/wordpress\/strange-mexico-details-emerge\/\" target=\"_blank\">they struck<\/a>. How long they&#8217;d been following us, I don&#8217;t know. But we had the look of perfect marks. And the location, though decidedly atypical &#8212; no big crowds for them to hide in &#8212; was ideal. Especially that damn ornamental shrub. We literally did not see them coming. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/lelandhale.com\/images\/crime-scene-west.png\" alt=\"marks\"\/><figcaption><strong>Scene of the Crime<\/strong> : When the &#8220;bird poop&#8221; hit I looked up to the terrace, just as they intended<br>(courtesy Google Street View)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We arrived in CDMX &#8212; Ciudad Mexico &#8212; at 7:00 in the evening. At the airport, we jostled our way&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[91,106,17],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14384","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-culture","category-mexico","category-true-crime"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v24.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Scene of the Crime: Perfect Marks - Leland E. Hale<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Pickpockets are always looking for easy marks. People who aren&#039;t paying attention. People who seem out of place. 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